4-6 September 2023
After Vumba, Chimanimani was going to take some doing to win my heart. We were not sure where we were going to camp in Chimanimani – options are limited, and we had mixed reviews to go on…so we wung it! Chimanimani is a far more populated area, with farms and plantations. It is still beautiful, but I think we all found it a bit of a “let down” after Bvumba. We found, however, on recommendation from Ken and Susan from Vumba, a fabulous campsite, The Farmhouse. I had come across this when researching places to stay, but at the time, a separate campsite was not yet on their Facebook page/website. The campsite is in a penned off area of a large paddock where the cows, horses and a couple of sheep graze. The old workshop has been converted into an ablution facility – beautiful shower, great flush loo, and a wonderful covered sitting area to enjoy your braai or cooking.
One can buy fresh milk – I mean straight out of the cow! I was thrilled! Warm creamy milk – just one of those best ever things to enjoy in life. Shelley went with Mildred, the manageress of the farm, to pick fresh veg and herbs…we ate her spinach for weeks! We also got a few fresh farm eggs.
Scott and Shelley set off to explore one or two of the shorter hikes, while we relaxed enjoying the farm vibes. Chimanimani Mountains are world-renowned for the hiking, but Richard and I are not big hikers 🙂 sadly.
Before we settled in, we needed to stock up on some fresh food – Chimanimani itself is a village, so I found really good veggies and fruit from two small sidewalk stalls. Just loved buying fresh produce in Zim. We ventured into some of the little supermarkets – all the basics available. A few other bits and bobs purchased, and to the campsite to settle in.
Marco and Moira joined us later, so we enjoyed a braai together. I was feeling a bit birded out, but still wanted to try to see some of the special birds around Chimanimani, as it is a designated Important Bird Area, but had left it a bit late to get a guide…we did, however, arrange to meet up with a guide, lovely gentleman who is actually a hiking guide, like his legendary father, who we landed up meeting after a birding session in a hotel garden. Anyway, Tiwande (hope I spelt your name correctly), is learning from his brother Tim, about birding. We first headed up to the National Park Office to get our permit to be able to enter the famous Bridal Veil falls area of Chimanimani NP, and I landed up chatting with the one of the rangers, who is actually head of the ecological studies in the park. Very interesting and hopefully he will remain in contact as they are keen to develop the citizen science aspect of gathering data in the area, as people surround the park and are part of its heritage. Chimanimani NP is a Biodiversity Hotspot, especially in the floral domain, much of it covered by Afro-montane forest. Much knowledge is stored in local communities, spanning back over seasons and generations, that is really important to help manage conservation now and in the future.
We drove the narrow road on the edge of the mountain to the Bridal Veil Falls – as we were not there in the rainy season, we did not experience the veil per se, but non the less, a beautiful waterfall. We managed to see a couple of birds, but we were there at the wrong time of day. We headed back to camp and met up much later in the afternoon with Tiwande for another short session, which was quite productive.
The Chimanimani area is renowned for its hikes, and it deserves to be explored. There are other parts known for great birding that, thanks to the mudslides and wash aways from Cyclone Freddy earlier this year, were still inaccessible, or extremely difficult to get to. Tiwande spoke a little of the mudslides…not much as he got very choked up – he had helped bury over 70 people that lost their lives in the villages of Chimanimani. He mentioned he was lucky to be alive – we didn’t press him for details, but he did say he was grateful that none of his family perished in the disaster. One hears about these disasters through news bulletins, but the emotional, traumatic realities are hard to grasp until you see the destruction and the emotional impact on the people that live here. I did not know so many people had lost their lives.
I hope to go back and explore around the region a little better prepared one day. Another beautiful corner of Zimbabwe with lovely people and incredible biodiversity.
We had planned to spend 3 nights here, but the bush was calling. Luckily our next destination, Mokore Ranch in the Save Conservancy, could accommodate us, so we hit the road to experience something different…private run conservation by landowners, some have a form of agriculture, some have removed cattle and are now game farms, so hunting safaris are an important source of income here…I wanted to experience this side of conservation in Zimbabwe too.
