Seldom Seen – An African Birding Paradise
1 – 4 September 2023
The road to Mutare, where we stocked up on gas, refuelled and bought some braai meat, was beautiful – some plantations, more grasslands, and after Mutare we headed east. Oh my – the road winds up over and around hills, along mountain sides, eventually reaching the moister climes and the thick Afro-Montane Forest belt.
We had booked to camp at a place well known within the birding fraternity – Seldom Seen, run by Ken Worsley and his partner, Susan. Turn left off the Bvumba Road and wind down on a bouncy dirt road to Ken & Susan’s house. Ken is now farming proteas – he grows them from cuttings, and then sells them on to those who farm them for the floral industry. His nursery, also with other plants been grown, is full of amazing birds! Past another two cottages which one can rent (holiday rental) to Crimsonwing Campsite. So imagine coming down a thickly forested hill and emerging into a clearing – and looking over the rolling hill-like Vumba mountains, and down the valleys into Mozambique. Our view for 3 days! There is a cottage on the site, which is devoid of furniture, but acts as the ablution block and kitchen area. Richard and I took our bed out of Klippie and camped in one of the empty bedrooms. We settled in and lit the braai fire after we had walked up to Ken’s to book guided birding walks and find out about what else happens in Bvumba.
Forest birding is not easy…a lot of listening trying to locate the bird parties, walking stealthily trying not to make too much noise (tricky with leaves and sticks underfoot), and then waiting patiently for the bird(s) to emerge from behind clumps of leaves or thick tree trunks. Of course, most of the time your head is bent right back with binos pointed up to the tree canopy trying to at least catch a glimpse of the target bird flitting through canopy.
Having a guide who is familiar with the species, their preferred habitats and their calls makes all the difference when you have only a short time to enjoy the diversity of birds on offer. Buluwesi Murambiwa is a legend in Bvumba – for good reason. He met us at 06h00 near our campsite and walked us through the grounds of Seldom Seen, into the forested parts, around the gardens and nursery. He taught us the calls – well he made the calls, but sometimes used recordings to call some of the trickier birds in. He gets excited and helped us spot the skulking warblers and robins, the flitting flycatchers and the shy secretive birds. Bulbuls, Greeenbuls, Chirinda Apalis, amazing array of sunbirds, and eventually the cute Red-faced Crimsonwing! Over a grassland area we spotted an Augur Buzzard calling and flying over the hills around us – this bird I had been looking out for since Namibia, so it was a wonderful Lifer for me.
13 Lifers in a couple of hours just on the property of Seldom Seen! Many of them really special birds that you can see in Mozambique, and then along a sliver of an area running down this section of the Eastern Highlands. With our heads full of birds and trees to process, and our souls replenished, back to our campsite for breakfast and relax.
Piles of washing were done for us by Marta – what a treat, and in the afternoon Richard and I drove to a gem of a place, completely unexpected, elegant, gracious Tony’s Coffee Shop. Wow….the most delicious decadent cakes, coffees and around 100 different teas to choose from. A fascinating man is Tony – we bought his book for Emma, (Tony signed it for you, Emms) which tells his life story and a few of his delicious recipes. We learnt much about Bvumba area in the short time we chatted to Tony – a lot happens here, and if ever you find yourself heading to Zimbabwe, set a good deal of time aside for the Vumba mountains, its people, history, Tony’s Coffee Shop with a very empty tummy, hikes, birds and sheer beauty.
On return to Crimsonwing, we had another couple from Hermanus join us for a night at our little campsite – Moira and Marco. The world is small, as it turns out that the Hindmarch’s and them share a mutual friend! We had another night with Moira and Marco in Chimanimani and discovered we also know someone working in the Seychelles who are very close friends with Marco and Moira!
31/09/2023
Early birds again – well Rich stayed behind to relax and have some me time (ie no birding ), while Scott, Shelley and myself headed to the Miombo woodlands as well as some grasslands with Buli. We basically birded along the Bvumba Road, winding back down the mountain, stopping in Buli’s favourite spots to find some specials. Again, one needs to listen for the bird parties, follow the noise, listen for wings, and sometimes you are rewarded with some unexpected sightings, like the incredibly striking Striped Pipit. Another 14 Lifers, including the highly secretive Swynnerton’s Robin in the Afromontane Forest on the way back to Seldom Seen. We tried three different spots for the Swynnerton’s – and eventually saw a pair foraging in the understorey next to a well vegetated stream in the forest. Impossible to photograph, but great to see through my fabulous binos. In fact, I had not taken my camera at all this morning as trying to see the birds properly and then take a photo is just stressful. As a result, a wonderful morning’s birding. Thanks again Buli for your time, humour, patience, knowledge, and enthusiasm.
Back at camp and ravenous after all the birdy excitement, we tucked into omelettes, then spent the early afternoon catching up on diaries, blogs, birdlists, reading, watching the Samango Monkeys picking shoots and leaves with their delicate hands in the trees around camp – their intelligent hazel brown eyes making sure we don’t come to close.
We decided to explore a bit in the late afternoon and drove to the Vumba Botanical Gardens. Nestled in the forest are these Kirstenbosch-like gardens, kept but not recently planted – so just keeping the gardens going. Again, these places need support – the people of Vumba and the rangers do what they can, but after years of no Government funding, buildings fall into disrepair, people were not paid. Maintenance is happening though, and a few families were seen enjoying the space with their children.
Back to Seldom Seen to pack up, braai, ready for an early start to drive to the lower altitude mountains of Chimanimani…
Approximately 248 bird species on my travel list so far, fish caught – same as before …sorry guys…
