23-27 August 2023
Nyamoumba is a privately owned “concession” approximately 40 km below the Kariba Dam Wall, within the Zambezi National Park. The land is sandwiched between the Lower Zambezi River, just at the mouth of the Kariba Gorge, and the escarpment of the surrounding mountains. In order to get to Nyamoumba by road, one needs to drive, in our case, from Kariba Town, up the mountain, to the National Parks Office to pay various conservation fees, then turn around and drive down the escarpment, along the Chirundu road. It is a spectacular drive, through rolling hillls and mountains, bushveld carpeted with baobabs, mopane and other tree species. Dust and “smog” from the winter smouldering fires lingers in the air. Winter…hmmm…as we got to the floor of the Zambezi Valley, the thermometer was registering 31 degrees Celcius!
After turning off the Chirundu road, we followed the river valley, over a few dry river crossings, and finally arrived at Nyamoumba. We were met by all the camp attendants – wow…we were the only guests, so the next four days we had the area to ourselves. This stay was our big treat for this trip – no camping but staying in beautiful simple accommodation (each couple had a chalet with en suite bathroom), 3 meals per day, fishing, birding by boat all included. It was a SADC special for the month of August, and worth every last penny!
Sibs was our game and bird guide for the duration of our stay – knowledgeable, wise and a a gentleman. Brian is the camp manager and made sure all our “needs” were attended to – smiley, helpful with a great sense of humour. Delicious meals were cooked by Chef Stanley, and served by Tishane, who is in training for the hospitality industry – a gentle soul. Our boat captain and fishing guide was Bernard, ably assisted by fellow skippers and guides Beverly and – his name escapes me. Then a trainee game guide was assigned the security officer – Zambia is only around 50 m away halfway across the river and some Zambians poach fish and game on the Zimbabwe side.
The guys all helped to unload our dusty vehicles, collect our mountains of washing, and gave us time to settle in. It was now 39 degrees, so definitely time for a swim in the pool – a few too many crocs and hippos in the river! Bliss. Shower then off for a short sunset boat trip with Bernard at the helm and Sibs explaining, with input from Bernard, about the fauna and flora, as well as the people, that call this part of the Zambezi, home.
The Lower Zambezi is literally littered with hippos. Much dodging and weaving and stamping on the floor of the boat to avoid getting in contact with these huge, potentially lethal herbivores. The elephants are apparently generally smaller in size in this region than elsewhere – maybe an adaptation to terrain and diet??
We were welcomed back to a chilled glass of wine and delicious supper: cream of tomato soup, pork fillet in a delicious apple-creamy-gravy, rice, beans, cauliflower; and a light chocolate brownie for dessert. Whew, all shattered, off to bed for a good night’s sleep.
Fishing was the name of the game here – Richard and Scott headed out at dawn with Bernard and came back smiling around 11 am – each having had a few takes, and each having landed a Tiger fish. Back out in the afternoon, and Scott landed a 12-pound Tigerfish – a really big fish for these parts of the Zambezi, and Rich landed a smaller one.
The next day, Rich landed another nice Tiger, so at the end of our stay, the fishing tally was up to 9 (5 Rich, 4 Scott) and birds spotted around 193 species.
The birding around Nyamoumba is great – it was a bit too hot for me (and the birds) so I didn’t spend much time wandering into the bush, looking for the elusive LBJs. Birding from the boat is also very productive – this is how I got to see two very special birds:
Drifting down the gorge over a rapid interspersed with rocks, I spotted two birds perched low – Rock Pratincoles! Huge excitement! Sibs was also on a mission to make sure we got to see another special bird of the Southern African Region…Pel’s Fishing Owl. He had a record to keep – all his guests had seen one within a three day stay, and low and behold, just before camp, Sibs spotted one, sitting in a tree almost overhanging the river. What a magnificent bird – I more than get the hype of seeing one in the feather! It is hauntingly beautiful, unusual colouring, and those eyes! Very special day indeed.
A special trip was by boat, against the flow up the gorge to view the Kariba Dam Wall. Bernard navigated the river, over rapids, through swirling eddies and sneaky rocks upstream. Quite a sight seeing this giganormous wall holding back the waters of Lake/Dam Kariba. Water is released almost daily from the dam for Hydro-electric power to both Zimbabwe and Zambia, who “share” the dam wall.
We turned around and then headed down stream quite a lot faster…the men were happy – lines were out. A little way down, we eased into a little cove, tied up to a tree on the rocks, and enjoyed a delicious packed lunch – home-made pizza, salad and a beer…or was it a G&T ? it was a beautiful spot – Bernard’s Bay, we dubbed it.
We loved our stay at Nyamoumba. Truly relaxing. And the team of gentleman working quietly made it all the better. Thank you for a wonderful time, team Nyamoumba.
