21 – 23 August 2023
To date : Approximately 171 bird species seen, 17 Lifers, Fish caught 5.
Our possie of two vehicles, left the bush of Hwange behind, and started winding our way through the mountains and hills covered in Savanah Bushveld, dodging potholes and eventually down to the western shores of the enormous Lake Kariba. Our destination for the night being Zambezi Mlibizi Resort, which is next to the point where we would board the Kariba Ferry for a 24-hour trip across the lake to Kariba Town (Andora Harbour).
The resort is comprised of chalets, holiday houses that are rented out when the owners are not using them, if I understood it correctly. The gardens are just beautiful. We were allocated a 3-bedroom chalet with incredible views over the Mlibizi River and the start of the great Kariba Dam. It was wonderful to have a break from camping. Some cleaning out of the vehicles, packing overnight bags for the ferry trip, and a little G&T on our verandah before heading to the hotel down the road for supper. It is sad to see how run down so many places are, but people soldier on, make the best of what they can, everything is clean, and the people are so welcoming and friendly.
After a great night’s sleep, we watched the sunrise over Mlibizi. Pack Klippie, place the solar panel on top of the stowed roof-top tent to keep the systems e.g. fridge, going while on board the ferry.
Stash and Klippie joined the queue to board the ferry, we paid the Park Fees (USD 6 per person). The sedan type vehicles were the first to be loaded on board as they are parked under cover. Higher vehicles, like ours, are driven on board last – and only 3 of these can fit. Getting the vehicles on board requires the driver to reverse onto a ramp joined to the land by 2 metal strips. The crew ably direct and guide the driver so that no-one lands in the water, or crashes into bits of the ferry! Whew, it was quite something to watch – Richard did a great job and made it look easy. Stash was the last on board and was sandwiched between Klippie and another 4×4 vehicle. Everyone and their vehicles were now safely on board, ropes cast off and off we headed onto the Lake Kariba aka Kariba Dam.
This part of the Zambezi River was flooded around 60 years ago, after the wall was completed. It landed up being 40% bigger in size than the surveys bargained for. The enormity of this expanse of water one gets to appreciate on this voyage – at many pints it is difficult to see the opposite shore, and in terms of length – Mlibizi to Kariba Town takes around 22-24 hours, sailing at around 8-10 knots.
We settled in, chatted to fellow passengers, read, updated bird lists, wrote in diaries. We were served a simple but delicious continental style cold lunch and continued with more of the same until G&T sundowner time. Around 5 pm, the ferry stopped for about 15 minutes in the middle of the dam – in an area of deep water, to allow those who wished to have a swim. After 1.5 G&Ts, I became brave enough to dip into the croc infested waters. It was really lovely, I was just way too nervous to linger in the water and headed for a lekka hot shower.
The ferry is named Sea Lion and has just celebrated her 50th birthday. She is old and needs some TLC and a bit if a revamp, but everything worked, was clean, and as usual, the staff on board were warm and welcoming.
We enjoyed a delicious dinner – roast beef and potatoes etc, sitting out on the deck with great company. As the it got darker, so the lights from thousands of Kapenta fishing boats dotted our path, ready for an evening of fishing. These small fish are a staple source of protein around the dam in both Zimbabwe and Zambia. How there are any fish left, I have no idea.
There are no cabins on the ferry – one sleeps either in chairs which fold down into single beds, or take a mattress from a pile and sleep on the floor – which is what Rich and I did. Take some form of bed linen – Kikoys and Shukas work well. They do have blankets if you need.
We managed to get some sleep, up at sunrise, armed with a cup of tea to welcome the dawn. Breakfast was eggs, bacon, toast and jam – we certainly ate well on the trip. Around 11 am we eventually reached Andora Harbour, wedged up to the bank and drove off the ferry . It was a public holiday as it was the National Elections. Quite a relaxed and excited vibe around. We filled up with fuel, and then hit the road to our next destination, feeling relaxed and ready to catch some fish and see some birds. Nyamoumba – a camp and lodge about 30 km below the dam wall as the crow flies, was to be our home for the next 4 days.
