09 AUGUST 2023
After a hectic week of trying to get organised and pack, we set off from Muizenberg at our planned departure time…5 am. Getting out of the city always takes time, so we wanted to avoid the morning rush hour, but also the violent taxi strike and protests. We avoided the first part of the N7, so enjoyed the scenic drive up the beginning of the R27, eventually heading back onto the N7 highway to Namibia close to Malmesbury.
Audible Book playing, coffee flowing for the driver (Richard), crocheting in hand we enjoyed a pleasant drive north, stopping at the Wimpy at Klawer for the traditional and obligatory breakfast. Team Hindmarch caught up with us there, after making the rookie error (their words) of leaving their passports at home…mercifully remembering just before getting onto the highway out of the city!
The drive further north meant a slow increase in temperature…very pleasant to thaw away the Cape Town winter cold. A beautiful sunny day encouraged the first of the West Coast flowers to open and we drove for kilometres past carpets of orange, yellow, white and lilac blooms, softening the harsh dry landscapes that are the succulent Karoo.
Coming up to the Orange River and the border of South Africa and Namibia, two sections of road had been badly damaged, partially washed away in the serious flooding and rains experienced a month or so ago, so vehicles had to drive under escort to the safer sections of road. Safely at the border, we cleared out of SA, drove across the Orange River, and entered Namibia with no hitches.
Full up with cheaper-than SA-fuel, we headed to our overnight stop – Amanzi Trails River Camp. It is situated on the banks of the Orange River, on a farm, overlooking low cliffs on the South African side of the river. Beautiful, grassed campsites with wonderfully clean ablutions. Quick bit of birding, first G&T for the trip, and Spaghetti Bolognaise and salad for dinner.
10 AUGUST 2023
Up early, with the sparrows, and back on the road into the orange sunrise to Keetmanshoop to buy SIM cards and sort out the spotlight that got smashed out buy a rod of metal that flew of another vehicle into the Hindmarch’s car! Luckily no other damage. Repair done quickly…getting SIM card nog-‘n- storie. Long queue as new law in Namibia that all SIM cards now have to be registered to that person, so many people coming on to register their SIMS so they don’t get blocked! Anyway, managed to do lots of crocheting while waiting our turn.
Back on the road to Tsumis Tented Camp. This is on a farm near Kalkrand. What a lovely spot, and fabulous accommodation. Very comfy tents with ensuite bathroom. A central entertainment area with braai, of course. The camp is situated a couple of kms from the farmhouse – they farm sheep mostly, so we got our braai chops and Gemsbok boerewors from Antoinette, who runs the accommodation. Stunning sunset over the tall yellow Namibian grass and Camelthorn trees. Early to bed.
11-13 AUGUST 2023
Not too early rise this morning, as we didn’t have to fold down tents. Back on the road north to Waterberg Wilderness Private Nature Reserve, which is adjacent to the Waterberg National Park. The Waterberg Plateau is a gigantic Table Mountain, with incredible birdlife as well as home to Black Rhino and other wildlife. We camped at the Waterberg Plateau campsite, which is laid out in the head of a valley of the escarpment. Each site accommodates one vehicle, has a covered area, braai, tap with drinkable spring water, and each site is allocated its own ablution (loo, shower, basin). Very nice. Super hot when we got there, so didn’t do much. Braai was at the Gie’s spot – venison and chicken burgers with loads of trimmings.
Next morning, up relatively early (with the sun), as Scott and Shelley went off on the guided walk on the Plateau. I really wanted to do some birding, so decided not to do that walk, as me stopping every 2 mins would not go down well with all the German and other foreign tourists. That meant I missed out on seeing a Rockrunner, one of the Waterberg special birds. Next time!
Richard earned about 50000 Brownie Points by coming on a birdy walk with me – they have a variety of shortish trails between their different lodge and campsites. Turned into a good 8 km hike. Some lovely birds, as well as close encounters with Kudu, the diminutive Damara Dikdik, and a large troop of baboons. Of course, I missed the Rüppel’s Parrot, but Richard saw it flying by at speed. I was just too slow. Another next time .
Back to the campsite after a VERY chilly dip in a pool, and to brunch of leftovers. The Hindmarch’s joined us a little later. An hour of relaxing and nursing a ruddy headache, then off on a Rhino Drive. This private nature reserve has a small herd of White Rhino, which are under direct 24 hour guard. Much to my horror, we were invited to climb out of the game drive vehicle and walk to find the other half of the herd. I am super nervous – those of you who have been in the bush with me on previous trips, know my displeasure in being too close to ellies, rhinos, buffalo – in vehicles – so being on foot was terrifying for me. However, what a privilege. They are truly magnificent animals, and to think that they are slaughtered for their horn (keratin ie hair) which is something that regrows, is just mind-blowing. Really, CITES need to change policies and open up the trade in sustainably harvested horn. We will NEVER be able to stop poaching, even if it is legalised to sell horn of known origin, but I am convinced it will decrease the need to poach if horn is more readily accessible in the markets. My personal view.
The rest of the game drive we saw Gemsbok (Oryx), Giraffe, Impala, Eland, Steenbok, Damara DikDik, and a few nice birds too – like the Northern Black Korhaan.
Hindmarch’s on cooking duty – a fabulous mostly veggie stirfry! Again, we were all rather shattered, so early to bed in our cosy Klippie, ready to be up early to hit the road further north…fishing (and birding)…here we come.
No. Bird species seen since leaving CT : approximately 65
No. of fish caught : None